Radio-Nice Club

Tag: Coté d’Azur

  • Èze Village – History, topography, and cultural transformation of a Mediterranean mountain village

    Èze Village towers above the sparkling ribbon of the Mediterranean Sea like a silent witness to a complex past. Perched on a steep rocky outcrop on the French Riviera, the village uniquely combines traces of early Ligurian cultures, medieval power struggles, modern fortification policies, and the cultural trends of the Belle Époque. Its development is a prime example of the transformation of Mediterranean settlements from strategic strongholds to symbolic cultural landscapes.

    1. The beginnings: Ligurian settlements and Roman spheres of influence

    The earliest traces of human presence in the Èze area can be attributed to the Celto-Ligurian tribes who settled in the region around what is now Mont Bastide. The choice of location was motivated by both defensive and economic considerations: the extremely steep topography offered protection from attackers, while the proximity to the sea facilitated trade.

    With Roman expansion in Provence, the entire coastal region was integrated into a systematic administrative and transportation system. Although Èze itself was not at the center of Roman urbanity, continuous settlement established itself along the coast, particularly in Èze-sur-Mer. The Roman presence also left behind agricultural techniques such as terraced farming and olive cultivation, which shaped the landscape until modern times.

    Èze Village – Cactus Garden

    2. Medieval consolidation: between Provence and Savoy

    From the High Middle Ages onwards, Èze developed into a fortified village, which was ideal for military purposes due to its location at an altitude of 430 meters. From then on, its history was marked by territorial conflicts: Èze initially belonged to the County of Provence.

    From the 14th century onwards, it fell under the rule of the House of Savoy. The conflict between Savoy and France in the 17th century led to multiple changes in strategy and ultimately to its integration into the Kingdom of France.

    The medieval streets – now home to artists’ studios and boutiques – were originally designed for defensive purposes. The village functioned as a stone labyrinth intended to confuse attackers. The central fortress, the citadel of Èze, was repeatedly expanded, but fell victim to Louis XIV’s strategic order of destruction in 1706. Today’s platform with the “Jardin Exotique” is a relic of this military past.

    3. Modern infrastructure: Fort Révère as part of national defense systems

    In the 19th century, Èze once again became the focus of French military planning due to its geographical location. Fort Révère, located in the hinterland above the village, was built after 1870 as part of the so-called Séré de Rivières system – a network of modern fortifications of European significance, created in response to the Franco-Prussian War.

    Fort Révère is characterized by: a polygonal layout with casemates, embrasures in all directions, massive walls made of stone and concrete, devices for communication with neighboring coastal and mountain forts.

    Although Fort Révère was never involved in combat, it played a role in monitoring the coast and securing the Italian-French border. Today, as a restored monument, it offers one of the most impressive panoramic views of the Riviera and symbolizes an era of European rearmament that changed fundamentally with the First World War.

    4. Château Balsan – Riviera romance and sophisticated

    The advent of Riviera tourism in the 19th century marked the beginning of a new era for Èze. Château Balsan played a special role in this development. Industrialist Émile Balsan, who came from an influential textile family, acquired the estate and transformed it into a sophisticated retreat.

    The château is remarkable for cultural and historical reasons: It was a frequent meeting place for the Parisian and international elite. Coco Chanel, who was closely associated with Émile Balsan in her early life, spent long periods here. It was in Èze that she made the transition from the world of aristocracy and bohemianism to her calling as a designer.

    The subsequent conversion of the building into the exclusive Château de la Chèvre d’Or hotel marked another turning point: the Riviera became a luxury destination, while the historic buildings of Èze were integrated into tourist and cultural contexts.

    Eze Jardin

    5. Continuity and renewal: From an agricultural society to a cultural landscape

    Until the early 20th century, Èze was still heavily agricultural: olive groves, vineyards, terraced farming, and sheep breeding dominated life. It was only with the expansion of modern transport infrastructure—roads, railways along the coast, and later the Corniche Routes—that the village underwent structural change.

    The significant combination of historic buildings, an exceptional location, and romantic aesthetics led to Èze becoming a fixture for: artists and writers, botanists (especially because of the exotic garden), historians, and tourists from all over the world.

    Today, Èze combines the preservation of its medieval identity with a mixture of arts and crafts, luxury hotels and natural landscape typical of the Côte d’Azur.

    6. Concluding remarks

    Èze Village is a prime example of the transformative power of historical sites. Its history encompasses: Ligurian origins, medieval power struggles, French and Savoyard territorial politics, modern fortification systems, the sophisticated culture of the Belle Époque and modern cultural tourism.

    The Château Balsan and Fort Révère serve as striking anchor points: one embodies the aesthetic and social appeal of the Riviera, the other the strategic importance of the region in an era of geopolitical uncertainty.

    Èze is thus not only a picturesque mountain village, but also a living archive of European history—a place where political, cultural, and landscape developments overlap in an extraordinary way.

  • Excerpt from “German Exiles on the Côte d’Azur”

    A journey through the 1930s by Klaus Kampe

    HISTORICAL CONTEXT AND EXILE IN SOUTHERN FRANCE

    When the National Socialists seized power in Germany in January 1933, a period of persecution and loss began for many writers, artists, and intellectuals. Theaters were closed, editorial offices purged, books burned. Those who remained risked being banned from their professions, imprisonment, or worse. Those who left had to find a new world. Countless Germans set out on their journey – with suitcases full of manuscripts, sketches, or simply hope.

    The south of France, the Côte d’Azur, became a lifeline for many of them. The light, the vastness of the sea, the olive groves, and pine-covered hills gave the refugees a sense of freedom. The region was also convenient in practical terms: the cost of living was lower than in Paris, and Marseille offered the opportunity to travel further afield if the situation became uncertain. Artists and writers had already discovered the coast, and so in the 1930s it seemed like an old acquaintance that was now showing a new face – that of exile.

    During these years, the great names of German culture gathered here: Thomas Mann wrote in the guesthouses along the coast, while his brother Heinrich lived with Nelly Kröger in Nice. Lion Feuchtwanger created an intellectual hub in his villa in Sanary-sur-Mer, frequented by Franz Werfel, Alma Mahler-Werfel, and many others. Bertolt Brecht wandered restlessly through the south of France, always searching for a place where work and security coincided. Painters such as Walter Bondy and writers such as Annette Kolb further shaped the atmosphere.

    Two places in particular became symbols of this exile: Nice, with its cosmopolitan vibrancy and boulevards where languages and cultures mingled; and Sanary-sur-Mer, a small fishing village whose harbor became the stage for a world in upheaval. There, between simple fishing boats and the facades of white houses, a close-knit community of exiles emerged, trying to preserve their language, their art, and their hope in the shadow of the looming dictatorship.

    Thus, on the Côte d’Azur, the beauty of the landscape was combined with the urgency of survival—leaving traces that are still visible today.

    TABLE OF CONTENTS

    Introduction

    Varian Fry – From Berlin to Marseille

    Historical Context and Exile in Southern France

    Exiles in Nice – The City of Refuge

    Sanary-sur-Mer – The German Village

    Famous Personalities in Exile

    The Portraits – Faces of a Lost World

    Marta and Lion Feuchtwanger

    Meeting at the Café du Lyon

    Max Colpet

    Thomas Mann and the Art of Exile Salons

    Voices in Exile

    Art, Literature, and the Struggle for Freedom of Speech

    Encounters and Communities

    Threats, Internment, and Escape

    Places of Residence Today – Discovering Historical Sites

    Comparison of Historical Photographs

    Links to Photos and Places

    Image Sources

    Epilogue

    Appendix

    in german:

    Abdruck aus “Deutsche Exilanten an der Côte d’Azur”

    Eine Reise durch die 1930er von Klaus Kampe

    HISTORISCHER KONTEXT UND EXIL IN SÜDFRANKREICH

    Als im Januar 1933 die Nationalsozialisten in Deutschland die Macht übernahmen, begann für viele Schriftsteller, Künstler und Intellektuelle eine Zeit der Verfolgung und des Verlustes. Bühnen wurden geschlossen, Redaktionen gesäubert, Bücher verbrannt. Wer blieb, riskierte Berufsverbot, Haft oder Schlimmeres. Wer ging, musste sich eine neue Welt suchen. So setzten sich unzählige Deutsche in Bewegung – mit Koffern voller Manuskripte, Skizzen oder einfach nur Hoffnung.

    Der Süden Frankreichs, die Côte d’Azur, wurde für viele von ihnen zum Rettungsanker. Das Licht, die Weite des Meeres, die Olivenhaine und Pinienhügel gaben den Flüchtenden eine Ahnung von Freiheit. Auch praktisch war die Region günstig: Die Lebenshaltungskosten waren niedriger als in Paris, und von Marseille aus bot sich die Möglichkeit, weiterzureisen, falls die Lage unsicher wurde. Schon zuvor hatten Künstler und Literaten die Küste entdeckt, und so wirkte sie in den 1930er Jahren wie eine alte Bekannte, die nun ein neues Gesicht zeigte – die eines Exils.

    In diesen Jahren trafen hier die großen Namen der deutschen Kultur zusammen: Thomas Mann schrieb in den Pensionen der Küste, sein Bruder Heinrich lebte mit Nelly Kröger in Nizza. Lion Feuchtwanger schuf in seiner Villa in Sanary-sur-Mer einen geistigen Mittelpunkt, an dem Franz Werfel, Alma Mahler-Werfel und viele andere verkehrten. Bertolt Brecht zog unstet durch Südfrankreich, stets auf der Suche nach einem Ort, an dem Arbeit und Sicherheit zusammenfielen. Maler wie Walter Bondy oder Schriftstellerinnen wie Annette Kolb prägten die Atmosphäre zusätzlich.

    Besonders zwei Orte wurden zu Symbolen dieses Exils: Nizza, mit seiner kosmopolitischen Lebendigkeit und den Boulevards, auf denen sich Sprachen und Kulturen mischten; und Sanary-sur-Mer, ein kleiner Fischerort, dessen Hafenbecken zur Bühne einer Welt im Umbruch wurde. Dort, zwischen einfachen Fischerbooten und den Fassaden weißer Häuser, entstand eine dichte Gemeinschaft von Exilanten, die im Schatten der drohenden Diktatur versuchten, ihre Sprache, ihre Kunst und ihre Hoffnung zu bewahren.

    So verband sich an der Côte d’Azur die Schönheit der Landschaft mit der Dringlichkeit des Überlebens – und hinterließ Spuren, die bis heute sichtbar sind.

  • Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald on the Côte d’Azur

    Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald on the Côte d’Azur – A life between glamour and ruin

    Francis Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda were among the most dazzling figures of the 1920s. As the epitome of the Jazz Age, they lived a life of literary intoxication, excess, and social glamour – a life that reached its peak, but also its tragedy, in the south of France, on the Côte d’Azur.

    The dream of the south

    After the success of The Great Gatsby, the Fitzgeralds sought a new home away from the United States. In 1924, they were drawn to the French Riviera, which had become a magnet for artists, writers, and eccentrics in the years after World War I. A cosmopolitan community developed here, where Americans, British, and French people met. The Côte d’Azur stood for sun, luxury, and sophisticated freedom—the ideal backdrop for a couple who embodied the myth of the “golden life.”

    Glamour and society

    In Cannes, Antibes, and Juan-les-Pins, the Fitzgeralds quickly became part of an illustrious circle. They socialized with Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Cole Porter, and above all Ernest Hemingway, with whom Scott had a difficult but formative friendship. The evenings were marked by lavish parties, alcohol, and scandals. Scott and Zelda became symbolic figures of an unrestrained generation that wanted to try everything after the horrors of war.

    Work and turmoil

    But behind the glittering façade, tensions were simmering. Fitzgerald worked feverishly on new texts, while Zelda increasingly took refuge in her own artistic ambitions – dance, painting, and later writing. Their marriage was strained by rivalry, jealousy, and Scott’s alcohol problems. Added to this was Zelda’s mental instability, which intensified during their years on the Riviera. Nevertheless, significant works emerged from this atmosphere: Fitzgerald gathered impressions that flowed into Tender is the Night, a novel that captures the Côte d’Azur lifestyle and the breakdown of a marriage like no other.

    Shattered illusions

    The dream of a “southern paradise” proved illusory. Zelda suffered a severe nervous breakdown in France in 1930 and was admitted to a clinic. Scott struggled increasingly with his role as a writer who was celebrated but also increasingly tormented by self-doubt. The sparkling couple who once ruled the Riviera became tragic figures: trapped in their longing for beauty, but torn between art, intoxication, and inner emptiness.

    Aftermath

    Their time on the Côte d’Azur left an indelible mark on literature. In Fitzgerald’s descriptions, light and shadow, sun and abyss, celebration and decay merge. What began as a fairy tale of glamour and youth ended as a symbol of an era whose lightness was always accompanied by destruction.

    Thus, the memory of Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald on the Riviera remains a paradox: they lived there the dream of eternal summer – and at the same time its bitter awakening.

    in deutsch:

    Scott und Zelda Fitzgerald an der Côte d’Azur – Ein Leben zwischen Glanz und Abgrund

    Francis Scott Fitzgerald und seine Frau Zelda gehören zu den schillerndsten Figuren der 1920er Jahre. Als Inbegriff des „Jazz Age“ lebten sie ein Leben im Rausch von Literatur, Exzess und gesellschaftlichem Glanz – ein Leben, das gerade in Südfrankreich, an der Côte d’Azur, seinen Höhepunkt, aber auch seine Tragik fand.

    Der Traum vom Süden

    Nach dem Erfolg von The Great Gatsby suchten die Fitzgeralds eine neue Heimat abseits der Vereinigten Staaten. 1924 zog es sie an die französische Riviera, die in den Jahren nach dem Ersten Weltkrieg zu einem Anziehungspunkt für Künstler, Schriftsteller und Exzentriker geworden war. Hier entstand eine kosmopolitische Gemeinschaft, in der sich Amerikaner, Briten und Franzosen trafen. Die Côte d’Azur stand für Sonne, Luxus und mondäne Freiheit – ideale Kulisse für ein Paar, das den Mythos des „goldenen Lebens“ verkörperte.

    Glanz und Gesellschaft

    In Cannes, Antibes und Juan-les-Pins waren die Fitzgeralds schnell Teil eines illustren Kreises. Sie verkehrten mit Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Cole Porter und vor allem mit Ernest Hemingway, mit dem Scott eine schwierige, aber prägende Freundschaft verband. Die Abende waren geprägt von rauschenden Festen, Alkohol und Skandalen. Scott und Zelda wurden zu Symbolfiguren einer entfesselten Generation, die nach den Schrecken des Krieges alles ausprobieren wollte.

    Arbeit und Zerrissenheit

    Doch hinter der glänzenden Fassade brodelten Spannungen. Fitzgerald arbeitete fieberhaft an neuen Texten, während Zelda zunehmend in ihre eigenen künstlerischen Ambitionen flüchtete – Tanz, Malerei, später das Schreiben. Ihre Ehe wurde von Rivalität, Eifersucht und Scotts Alkoholproblemen belastet. Hinzu kam Zeldas geistige Instabilität, die sich während der Jahre an der Riviera verstärkte. In dieser Atmosphäre entstanden dennoch bedeutende Werke: Fitzgerald sammelte Eindrücke, die in Tender is the Night einflossen, einem Roman, der wie kein anderer das Lebensgefühl der Côte d’Azur und den Zerfall einer Ehe einfängt.

    Zerbrechende Illusionen

    Der Traum vom „südlichen Paradies“ erwies sich als trügerisch. Zelda erlitt 1930 in Frankreich einen schweren Nervenzusammenbruch und wurde in eine Klinik eingewiesen. Scott kämpfte immer stärker mit seiner Rolle als Schriftsteller, der zwar gefeiert, aber zunehmend auch von Selbstzweifeln gequält war. Aus dem funkelnden Paar, das einst die Riviera beherrschte, wurden tragische Figuren: Gefangen in ihrer Sehnsucht nach Schönheit, aber zerrieben zwischen Kunst, Rausch und innerer Leere.

    Nachklang

    Die Zeit an der Côte d’Azur hinterließ in der Literatur ein unvergängliches Echo. In Fitzgeralds Schilderungen verschmelzen Licht und Schatten, Sonne und Abgrund, Feste und Zerfall. Was zunächst wie ein Märchen aus Glanz und Jugend begann, endete als Symbol einer Epoche, deren Leichtigkeit immer schon von Zerstörung begleitet war.

    So bleibt die Erinnerung an Scott und Zelda Fitzgerald an der Riviera ein Paradox: Sie lebten dort den Traum vom ewigen Sommer – und zugleich dessen bitteres Erwachen.

    in french:

    Scott et Zelda Fitzgerald sur la Côte d’Azur – Une vie entre gloire et abîme

    Francis Scott Fitzgerald et sa femme Zelda comptent parmi les personnages les plus fascinants des années 1920. Incarnant à la perfection le « Jazz Age », ils menaient une vie marquée par la littérature, les excès et les fastes mondains – une vie qui a connu son apogée, mais aussi sa tragédie, dans le sud de la France, sur la Côte d’Azur.

    Le rêve du Sud

    Après le succès de Gatsby le Magnifique, les Fitzgerald cherchèrent une nouvelle patrie loin des États-Unis. En 1924, ils s’installèrent sur la Côte d’Azur, qui était devenue après la Première Guerre mondiale un pôle d’attraction pour les artistes, les écrivains et les excentriques. Une communauté cosmopolite s’y était formée, où se côtoyaient Américains, Britanniques et Français. La Côte d’Azur était synonyme de soleil, de luxe et de liberté mondaine – un cadre idéal pour un couple qui incarnait le mythe de la « vie dorée ».

    Glamour et mondanités

    À Cannes, Antibes et Juan-les-Pins, les Fitzgerald s’intègrent rapidement dans un cercle illustre. Ils fréquentent Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Cole Porter et surtout Ernest Hemingway, avec lequel Scott entretient une amitié difficile mais marquante. Les soirées étaient marquées par des fêtes somptueuses, l’alcool et les scandales. Scott et Zelda devinrent les figures emblématiques d’une génération débridée qui, après les horreurs de la guerre, voulait tout essayer.

    Travail et déchirement

    Mais derrière cette façade brillante, les tensions bouillonnaient. Fitzgerald travaillait fébrilement à de nouveaux textes, tandis que Zelda se réfugiait de plus en plus dans ses propres ambitions artistiques : la danse, la peinture, puis plus tard l’écriture. Leur mariage était miné par la rivalité, la jalousie et les problèmes d’alcoolisme de Scott. À cela s’ajoutait l’instabilité mentale de Zelda, qui s’est aggravée au fil des années passées sur la Côte d’Azur. Dans cette atmosphère, des œuvres importantes ont néanmoins vu le jour : Fitzgerald a recueilli des impressions qui ont nourri Tender is the Night, un roman qui, comme aucun autre, capture l’esprit de la Côte d’Azur et la désintégration d’un mariage.

    Illusions brisées

    Le rêve d’un « paradis méridional » s’est avéré illusoire. En 1930, Zelda a fait une grave dépression nerveuse en France et a été admise dans une clinique. Scott avait de plus en plus de mal à assumer son rôle d’écrivain, certes célèbre, mais de plus en plus tourmenté par le doute. Le couple étincelant qui régnait autrefois sur la Côte d’Azur est devenu tragique : prisonnier de son désir de beauté, mais déchiré entre l’art, l’ivresse et le vide intérieur.

    Répercussions

    Le temps passé sur la Côte d’Azur a laissé une empreinte indélébile dans la littérature. Dans les descriptions de Fitzgerald, lumière et ombre, soleil et abîme, fête et décadence se confondent. Ce qui avait commencé comme un conte de fées fait de splendeur et de jeunesse s’est terminé comme le symbole d’une époque dont la légèreté a toujours été accompagnée de destruction.

    Le souvenir de Scott et Zelda Fitzgerald sur la Riviera reste donc paradoxal : ils y ont vécu le rêve d’un été éternel, mais aussi son réveil amer.

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  • Tips and recommendations for a trip to Nice

    Here are some suggestions for your trip to the Coté D’azur.

    • Enjoy the Promenade des Anglais – This famous beach promenade is a must-see in Nice. You can take a stroll, enjoy the sea and visit the many cafés along the street.
    • Explore the Old Port and the Vieux-Nice (Old Town) district – The narrow, picturesque streets of the Old Town are full of life, with colorful markets, stores and traditional restaurants. The Cours Saleya in particular is a popular market where you can find fresh flowers and local produce.
    • Visit the castle hill (Colline du Château) – From the castle hill you have a fantastic view over the city and the sea. It’s worth climbing the hill (or taking the elevator) to enjoy the view.
    • Experience the art scene – Nice is known for its museums and art galleries, in particular the Matisse Museum and the Marc Chagall Museum. Art lovers should definitely visit these.
    • Experience the southern French lifestyle – Nice is a rather relaxed place. You should take time to enjoy a croissant or a local specialty such as socca (a chickpea pancake) in a café.
    • Day trips along the Côte d’Azur – Nice is the perfect starting point for visiting other cities on the Côte d’Azur, such as Cannes, Monaco or Antibes.
    • Experience the French Riviera in spring or fall – If you want a little more peace and quiet and fewer tourists, the off-season is a wonderful time to visit Nice.

    Nice is a beautiful city on the Côte d’Azur in the south of France, known for its beaches, art scene and Mediterranean atmosphere. Here are some tips and recommendations for an unforgettable trip to Nice:

    1. walk along the Promenade des Anglais The Promenade des Anglais is one of the most famous sights in Nice. It runs along the beach and offers breathtaking views of the azure blue sea. Ideal for a stroll, a bit of people-watching or a relaxing break in a café.
    2. old town (Vieux Nice) Vieux Nice is the charming, historic heart of the city. Here you will find narrow, winding streets, colorful markets, small boutiques and numerous restaurants. A must-see is the Cours Saleya market, where you can buy fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers and local produce.
      Also visit the Sainte-Réparate Cathedral, a beautiful example of Baroque architecture.
    3. visit the Château hill The Colline du Château offers a magnificent view of the city and the coast. You can either walk up or take the elevator. At the top there are ruins of an old fortress and a beautiful park. Perfect for a picnic or just to enjoy the view.
    4. markets and local specialties
      Nice is famous for its culinary delights. Be sure to try socca (a kind of chickpea flatbread), pissaladière (an onion pie with olives and anchovies) and salade niçoise.
      The Marché de la Libération is a great place to discover local products. There you will find fresh herbs, spices and regional specialties.
      5th Museum of Modern Art (MAMAC)
    5. If you like art, you should visit the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC). It houses works by artists such as Yves Klein, Niki de Saint Phalle and other greats of modern art.
    6. day trips in the surrounding area
      Eze: A beautiful medieval village on a hill just a short drive from Nice. From here you have a fantastic view of the sea.
      Monaco: The luxurious Principality of Monaco is also just a short train ride away and offers sights such as the Palace of Monaco and the famous Monte Carlo Casino.
      Cannes: A little further west of Nice, known for its film festival and glamorous atmosphere.
    7. beaches
      Nice has both public and private beaches. The private beaches are chargeable, but offer comfortable.