Category: Travel

  • รˆze Village โ€“ History, topography, and cultural transformation of a Mediterranean mountain village

    รˆze Village towers above the sparkling ribbon of the Mediterranean Sea like a silent witness to a complex past. Perched on a steep rocky outcrop on the French Riviera, the village uniquely combines traces of early Ligurian cultures, medieval power struggles, modern fortification policies, and the cultural trends of the Belle ร‰poque. Its development is a prime example of the transformation of Mediterranean settlements from strategic strongholds to symbolic cultural landscapes.

    1. The beginnings: Ligurian settlements and Roman spheres of influence

    The earliest traces of human presence in the รˆze area can be attributed to the Celto-Ligurian tribes who settled in the region around what is now Mont Bastide. The choice of location was motivated by both defensive and economic considerations: the extremely steep topography offered protection from attackers, while the proximity to the sea facilitated trade.

    With Roman expansion in Provence, the entire coastal region was integrated into a systematic administrative and transportation system. Although รˆze itself was not at the center of Roman urbanity, continuous settlement established itself along the coast, particularly in รˆze-sur-Mer. The Roman presence also left behind agricultural techniques such as terraced farming and olive cultivation, which shaped the landscape until modern times.

    Eze garden

    2. Medieval consolidation: between Provence and Savoy

    From the High Middle Ages onwards, รˆze developed into a fortified village, which was ideal for military purposes due to its location at an altitude of 430 meters. From then on, its history was marked by territorial conflicts: รˆze initially belonged to the County of Provence.

    From the 14th century onwards, it fell under the rule of the House of Savoy. The conflict between Savoy and France in the 17th century led to multiple changes in strategy and ultimately to its integration into the Kingdom of France.

    The medieval streets โ€“ now home to artists’ studios and boutiques โ€“ were originally designed for defensive purposes. The village functioned as a stone labyrinth intended to confuse attackers. The central fortress, the citadel of รˆze, was repeatedly expanded, but fell victim to Louis XIV’s strategic order of destruction in 1706. Today’s platform with the โ€œJardin Exotiqueโ€ is a relic of this military past.

    3. Modern infrastructure: Fort Rรฉvรจre as part of national defense systems

    In the 19th century, รˆze once again became the focus of French military planning due to its geographical location. Fort Rรฉvรจre, located in the hinterland above the village, was built after 1870 as part of the so-called Sรฉrรฉ de Riviรจres system โ€“ a network of modern fortifications of European significance, created in response to the Franco-Prussian War.

    Fort Rรฉvรจre is characterized by: a polygonal layout with casemates, embrasures in all directions, massive walls made of stone and concrete, devices for communication with neighboring coastal and mountain forts.

    Although Fort Rรฉvรจre was never involved in combat, it played a role in monitoring the coast and securing the Italian-French border. Today, as a restored monument, it offers one of the most impressive panoramic views of the Riviera and symbolizes an era of European rearmament that changed fundamentally with the First World War.

    4. Chรขteau Balsan โ€“ Riviera romance and sophisticated

    The advent of Riviera tourism in the 19th century marked the beginning of a new era for รˆze. Chรขteau Balsan played a special role in this development. Industrialist ร‰mile Balsan, who came from an influential textile family, acquired the estate and transformed it into a sophisticated retreat.

    The chรขteau is remarkable for cultural and historical reasons: It was a frequent meeting place for the Parisian and international elite. Coco Chanel, who was closely associated with ร‰mile Balsan in her early life, spent long periods here. It was in รˆze that she made the transition from the world of aristocracy and bohemianism to her calling as a designer.

    The subsequent conversion of the building into the exclusive Chรขteau de la Chรจvre d’Or hotel marked another turning point: the Riviera became a luxury destination, while the historic buildings of รˆze were integrated into tourist and cultural contexts.

    Eze Jardin

    5. Continuity and renewal: From an agricultural society to a cultural landscape

    Until the early 20th century, รˆze was still heavily agricultural: olive groves, vineyards, terraced farming, and sheep breeding dominated life. It was only with the expansion of modern transport infrastructureโ€”roads, railways along the coast, and later the Corniche Routesโ€”that the village underwent structural change.

    The significant combination of historic buildings, an exceptional location, and romantic aesthetics led to รˆze becoming a fixture for: artists and writers, botanists (especially because of the exotic garden), historians, and tourists from all over the world.

    Today, รˆze combines the preservation of its medieval identity with a mixture of arts and crafts, luxury hotels and natural landscape typical of the Cรดte d’Azur.

    6. Concluding remarks

    รˆze Village is a prime example of the transformative power of historical sites. Its history encompasses: Ligurian origins, medieval power struggles, French and Savoyard territorial politics, modern fortification systems, the sophisticated culture of the Belle ร‰poque and modern cultural tourism.

    The Chรขteau Balsan and Fort Rรฉvรจre serve as striking anchor points: one embodies the aesthetic and social appeal of the Riviera, the other the strategic importance of the region in an era of geopolitical uncertainty.

    รˆze is thus not only a picturesque mountain village, but also a living archive of European historyโ€”a place where political, cultural, and landscape developments overlap in an extraordinary way.

  • APร‰RO AT TWELVE

    ABOUT TWO PEOPLE WHO MOVED TO FRANCE TO LIVE

    A book for all fans of France. And a wealth of experience for anyone who wants to follow in the author’s footsteps and make their dream of emigrating to France a reality.

    โ€žAufgeben ist keine Option, wenn es darum geht, sich seinen Traum zu erfรผllen.โ€œ
    โ€“ Ines Sachs โ€“

    Author Ines Sachs and her husband decide to leave Germany behind and live a life in the sunshine of southern France. In this book, she describes her emigration with affection and a great deal of humor: how the dream becomes a plan (it’s no coincidence that she is married to a project manager), the minor difficulties and major hurdles that need to be overcome, and finally the arrival in their new home, which does not go as smoothly as they had imagined.

  • Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald on the Cรดte d’Azur

    Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald on the Cรดte d’Azur โ€“ A life between glamour and ruin

    Francis Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda were among the most dazzling figures of the 1920s. As the epitome of the Jazz Age, they lived a life of literary intoxication, excess, and social glamour โ€“ a life that reached its peak, but also its tragedy, in the south of France, on the Cรดte d’Azur.

    The dream of the south

    After the success of The Great Gatsby, the Fitzgeralds sought a new home away from the United States. In 1924, they were drawn to the French Riviera, which had become a magnet for artists, writers, and eccentrics in the years after World War I. A cosmopolitan community developed here, where Americans, British, and French people met. The Cรดte d’Azur stood for sun, luxury, and sophisticated freedomโ€”the ideal backdrop for a couple who embodied the myth of the โ€œgolden life.โ€

    Glamour and society

    In Cannes, Antibes, and Juan-les-Pins, the Fitzgeralds quickly became part of an illustrious circle. They socialized with Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Cole Porter, and above all Ernest Hemingway, with whom Scott had a difficult but formative friendship. The evenings were marked by lavish parties, alcohol, and scandals. Scott and Zelda became symbolic figures of an unrestrained generation that wanted to try everything after the horrors of war.

    Work and turmoil

    But behind the glittering faรงade, tensions were simmering. Fitzgerald worked feverishly on new texts, while Zelda increasingly took refuge in her own artistic ambitions โ€“ dance, painting, and later writing. Their marriage was strained by rivalry, jealousy, and Scott’s alcohol problems. Added to this was Zelda’s mental instability, which intensified during their years on the Riviera. Nevertheless, significant works emerged from this atmosphere: Fitzgerald gathered impressions that flowed into Tender is the Night, a novel that captures the Cรดte d’Azur lifestyle and the breakdown of a marriage like no other.

    Shattered illusions

    The dream of a โ€œsouthern paradiseโ€ proved illusory. Zelda suffered a severe nervous breakdown in France in 1930 and was admitted to a clinic. Scott struggled increasingly with his role as a writer who was celebrated but also increasingly tormented by self-doubt. The sparkling couple who once ruled the Riviera became tragic figures: trapped in their longing for beauty, but torn between art, intoxication, and inner emptiness.

    Aftermath

    Their time on the Cรดte d’Azur left an indelible mark on literature. In Fitzgerald’s descriptions, light and shadow, sun and abyss, celebration and decay merge. What began as a fairy tale of glamour and youth ended as a symbol of an era whose lightness was always accompanied by destruction.

    Thus, the memory of Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald on the Riviera remains a paradox: they lived there the dream of eternal summer โ€“ and at the same time its bitter awakening.


    in deutsch:

    Scott und Zelda Fitzgerald an der Cรดte dโ€™Azur โ€“ Ein Leben zwischen Glanz und Abgrund

    Francis Scott Fitzgerald und seine Frau Zelda gehรถren zu den schillerndsten Figuren der 1920er Jahre. Als Inbegriff des โ€žJazz Ageโ€œ lebten sie ein Leben im Rausch von Literatur, Exzess und gesellschaftlichem Glanz โ€“ ein Leben, das gerade in Sรผdfrankreich, an der Cรดte dโ€™Azur, seinen Hรถhepunkt, aber auch seine Tragik fand.

    Der Traum vom Sรผden

    Nach dem Erfolg von The Great Gatsby suchten die Fitzgeralds eine neue Heimat abseits der Vereinigten Staaten. 1924 zog es sie an die franzรถsische Riviera, die in den Jahren nach dem Ersten Weltkrieg zu einem Anziehungspunkt fรผr Kรผnstler, Schriftsteller und Exzentriker geworden war. Hier entstand eine kosmopolitische Gemeinschaft, in der sich Amerikaner, Briten und Franzosen trafen. Die Cรดte dโ€™Azur stand fรผr Sonne, Luxus und mondรคne Freiheit โ€“ ideale Kulisse fรผr ein Paar, das den Mythos des โ€žgoldenen Lebensโ€œ verkรถrperte.

    Glanz und Gesellschaft

    In Cannes, Antibes und Juan-les-Pins waren die Fitzgeralds schnell Teil eines illustren Kreises. Sie verkehrten mit Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Cole Porter und vor allem mit Ernest Hemingway, mit dem Scott eine schwierige, aber prรคgende Freundschaft verband. Die Abende waren geprรคgt von rauschenden Festen, Alkohol und Skandalen. Scott und Zelda wurden zu Symbolfiguren einer entfesselten Generation, die nach den Schrecken des Krieges alles ausprobieren wollte.

    Arbeit und Zerrissenheit

    Doch hinter der glรคnzenden Fassade brodelten Spannungen. Fitzgerald arbeitete fieberhaft an neuen Texten, wรคhrend Zelda zunehmend in ihre eigenen kรผnstlerischen Ambitionen flรผchtete โ€“ Tanz, Malerei, spรคter das Schreiben. Ihre Ehe wurde von Rivalitรคt, Eifersucht und Scotts Alkoholproblemen belastet. Hinzu kam Zeldas geistige Instabilitรคt, die sich wรคhrend der Jahre an der Riviera verstรคrkte. In dieser Atmosphรคre entstanden dennoch bedeutende Werke: Fitzgerald sammelte Eindrรผcke, die in Tender is the Night einflossen, einem Roman, der wie kein anderer das Lebensgefรผhl der Cรดte dโ€™Azur und den Zerfall einer Ehe einfรคngt.

    Zerbrechende Illusionen

    Der Traum vom โ€žsรผdlichen Paradiesโ€œ erwies sich als trรผgerisch. Zelda erlitt 1930 in Frankreich einen schweren Nervenzusammenbruch und wurde in eine Klinik eingewiesen. Scott kรคmpfte immer stรคrker mit seiner Rolle als Schriftsteller, der zwar gefeiert, aber zunehmend auch von Selbstzweifeln gequรคlt war. Aus dem funkelnden Paar, das einst die Riviera beherrschte, wurden tragische Figuren: Gefangen in ihrer Sehnsucht nach Schรถnheit, aber zerrieben zwischen Kunst, Rausch und innerer Leere.

    Nachklang

    Die Zeit an der Cรดte dโ€™Azur hinterlieรŸ in der Literatur ein unvergรคngliches Echo. In Fitzgeralds Schilderungen verschmelzen Licht und Schatten, Sonne und Abgrund, Feste und Zerfall. Was zunรคchst wie ein Mรคrchen aus Glanz und Jugend begann, endete als Symbol einer Epoche, deren Leichtigkeit immer schon von Zerstรถrung begleitet war.

    So bleibt die Erinnerung an Scott und Zelda Fitzgerald an der Riviera ein Paradox: Sie lebten dort den Traum vom ewigen Sommer โ€“ und zugleich dessen bitteres Erwachen.


    in french:

    Scott et Zelda Fitzgerald sur la Cรดte d’Azur โ€“ Une vie entre gloire et abรฎme

    Francis Scott Fitzgerald et sa femme Zelda comptent parmi les personnages les plus fascinants des annรฉes 1920. Incarnant ร  la perfection le ยซ Jazz Age ยป, ils menaient une vie marquรฉe par la littรฉrature, les excรจs et les fastes mondains โ€“ une vie qui a connu son apogรฉe, mais aussi sa tragรฉdie, dans le sud de la France, sur la Cรดte d’Azur.

    Le rรชve du Sud

    Aprรจs le succรจs de Gatsby le Magnifique, les Fitzgerald cherchรจrent une nouvelle patrie loin des ร‰tats-Unis. En 1924, ils s’installรจrent sur la Cรดte d’Azur, qui รฉtait devenue aprรจs la Premiรจre Guerre mondiale un pรดle d’attraction pour les artistes, les รฉcrivains et les excentriques. Une communautรฉ cosmopolite s’y รฉtait formรฉe, oรน se cรดtoyaient Amรฉricains, Britanniques et Franรงais. La Cรดte d’Azur รฉtait synonyme de soleil, de luxe et de libertรฉ mondaine โ€“ un cadre idรฉal pour un couple qui incarnait le mythe de la ยซ vie dorรฉe ยป.

    Glamour et mondanitรฉs

    ร€ Cannes, Antibes et Juan-les-Pins, les Fitzgerald s’intรจgrent rapidement dans un cercle illustre. Ils frรฉquentent Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Cole Porter et surtout Ernest Hemingway, avec lequel Scott entretient une amitiรฉ difficile mais marquante. Les soirรฉes รฉtaient marquรฉes par des fรชtes somptueuses, l’alcool et les scandales. Scott et Zelda devinrent les figures emblรฉmatiques d’une gรฉnรฉration dรฉbridรฉe qui, aprรจs les horreurs de la guerre, voulait tout essayer.

    Travail et dรฉchirement

    Mais derriรจre cette faรงade brillante, les tensions bouillonnaient. Fitzgerald travaillait fรฉbrilement ร  de nouveaux textes, tandis que Zelda se rรฉfugiait de plus en plus dans ses propres ambitions artistiques : la danse, la peinture, puis plus tard l’รฉcriture. Leur mariage รฉtait minรฉ par la rivalitรฉ, la jalousie et les problรจmes d’alcoolisme de Scott. ร€ cela s’ajoutait l’instabilitรฉ mentale de Zelda, qui s’est aggravรฉe au fil des annรฉes passรฉes sur la Cรดte d’Azur. Dans cette atmosphรจre, des ล“uvres importantes ont nรฉanmoins vu le jour : Fitzgerald a recueilli des impressions qui ont nourri Tender is the Night, un roman qui, comme aucun autre, capture l’esprit de la Cรดte d’Azur et la dรฉsintรฉgration d’un mariage.

    Illusions brisรฉes

    Le rรชve d’un ยซ paradis mรฉridional ยป s’est avรฉrรฉ illusoire. En 1930, Zelda a fait une grave dรฉpression nerveuse en France et a รฉtรฉ admise dans une clinique. Scott avait de plus en plus de mal ร  assumer son rรดle d’รฉcrivain, certes cรฉlรจbre, mais de plus en plus tourmentรฉ par le doute. Le couple รฉtincelant qui rรฉgnait autrefois sur la Cรดte d’Azur est devenu tragique : prisonnier de son dรฉsir de beautรฉ, mais dรฉchirรฉ entre l’art, l’ivresse et le vide intรฉrieur.

    Rรฉpercussions

    Le temps passรฉ sur la Cรดte d’Azur a laissรฉ une empreinte indรฉlรฉbile dans la littรฉrature. Dans les descriptions de Fitzgerald, lumiรจre et ombre, soleil et abรฎme, fรชte et dรฉcadence se confondent. Ce qui avait commencรฉ comme un conte de fรฉes fait de splendeur et de jeunesse s’est terminรฉ comme le symbole d’une รฉpoque dont la lรฉgรจretรฉ a toujours รฉtรฉ accompagnรฉe de destruction.

    Le souvenir de Scott et Zelda Fitzgerald sur la Riviera reste donc paradoxal : ils y ont vรฉcu le rรชve d’un รฉtรฉ รฉternel, mais aussi son rรฉveil amer.

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  • Tips and recommendations for a trip to Nice

    Here are some suggestions for your trip to the Cotรฉ D’azur.

    • Enjoy the Promenade des Anglais – This famous beach promenade is a must-see in Nice. You can take a stroll, enjoy the sea and visit the many cafรฉs along the street.
    • Explore the Old Port and the Vieux-Nice (Old Town) district – The narrow, picturesque streets of the Old Town are full of life, with colorful markets, stores and traditional restaurants. The Cours Saleya in particular is a popular market where you can find fresh flowers and local produce.
    • Visit the castle hill (Colline du Chรขteau) – From the castle hill you have a fantastic view over the city and the sea. It’s worth climbing the hill (or taking the elevator) to enjoy the view.
    • Experience the art scene – Nice is known for its museums and art galleries, in particular the Matisse Museum and the Marc Chagall Museum. Art lovers should definitely visit these.
    • Experience the southern French lifestyle – Nice is a rather relaxed place. You should take time to enjoy a croissant or a local specialty such as socca (a chickpea pancake) in a cafรฉ.
    • Day trips along the Cรดte d’Azur – Nice is the perfect starting point for visiting other cities on the Cรดte d’Azur, such as Cannes, Monaco or Antibes.
    • Experience the French Riviera in spring or fall – If you want a little more peace and quiet and fewer tourists, the off-season is a wonderful time to visit Nice.

    Nice is a beautiful city on the Cรดte d’Azur in the south of France, known for its beaches, art scene and Mediterranean atmosphere. Here are some tips and recommendations for an unforgettable trip to Nice:

    1. walk along the Promenade des Anglais The Promenade des Anglais is one of the most famous sights in Nice. It runs along the beach and offers breathtaking views of the azure blue sea. Ideal for a stroll, a bit of people-watching or a relaxing break in a cafรฉ.
    2. old town (Vieux Nice) Vieux Nice is the charming, historic heart of the city. Here you will find narrow, winding streets, colorful markets, small boutiques and numerous restaurants. A must-see is the Cours Saleya market, where you can buy fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers and local produce.
      Also visit the Sainte-Rรฉparate Cathedral, a beautiful example of Baroque architecture.
    3. visit the Chรขteau hill The Colline du Chรขteau offers a magnificent view of the city and the coast. You can either walk up or take the elevator. At the top there are ruins of an old fortress and a beautiful park. Perfect for a picnic or just to enjoy the view.
    4. markets and local specialties
      Nice is famous for its culinary delights. Be sure to try socca (a kind of chickpea flatbread), pissaladiรจre (an onion pie with olives and anchovies) and salade niรงoise.
      The Marchรฉ de la Libรฉration is a great place to discover local products. There you will find fresh herbs, spices and regional specialties.
      5th Museum of Modern Art (MAMAC)
    5. If you like art, you should visit the Musรฉe d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC). It houses works by artists such as Yves Klein, Niki de Saint Phalle and other greats of modern art.
    6. day trips in the surrounding area
      Eze: A beautiful medieval village on a hill just a short drive from Nice. From here you have a fantastic view of the sea.
      Monaco: The luxurious Principality of Monaco is also just a short train ride away and offers sights such as the Palace of Monaco and the famous Monte Carlo Casino.
      Cannes: A little further west of Nice, known for its film festival and glamorous atmosphere.
    7. beaches
      Nice has both public and private beaches. The private beaches are chargeable, but offer comfortable.